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Interlocking Paver Installation

Interlocking Paver Installation

In order for your job to be done right you must first start with a plan. A simple sketch with accurate measurements will be required so that the sales representative at Hunt’s Concrete Ltd. can determine the right amount of materials you will need to complete your job.

Necessary Equipment

  • Woden stakes
  • String/twine
  • Broom
  • Heavy Hammer
  • Gardner’s Rake
  • Chalk line
  • Tape measure
  • 1″ diameter sand screed guides (pipe,wood,etc.)
  • 6-8 ft. 2″X4″
  • Carpenter’s level
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Flat shovel
  • Diamond saw
  • Plate compactor(ask sales rep where to rent)
  • Note:
    Determining Grades (elevation). It is beneficial to plan your project so hardscaped areas will be higher than surrounding ground. This allows water to drain to the lower, softer landcape to be absorbed. As well, by elevating the surface of the pavers above existing ground level you will minimize the amount of material you will need to excavate.

    Step #1. Excavation

    Mark the area to be excavated. Use wooden stakes and string to mark out the desired area. Drive the stakes so they extend 1 ft. beyond the planned area. Using the 3-4-5 triangle method to determine a perpendicular line, measure parallel lines from the perpendicular line to establish a boundary. Place stakes every 4 feet to 6 feet and at corners. Use a line level to make sure all strings are level.

    Determine the slope. To ensure good drainage, choose one end or your area as the low end (For most projects, this will be the end furthest from the house.) Measure from the high end to the low end (in feet), and allow 1/4″ per linear foot to determine the drop distance. Now, measure down the level marks on the low-end stakes, and mark the drop distance.

    Begin Digging. Using a shovel remove all sod/dirt to a depth of the total sum of the thickness of the 2 3/8″ pavers, 1″ sand, and 4-6″ Class ‘A’(6-10″ for driveways). It should be noted that you can subtract 1/2″ to compensate for “compacting” of pavers. Also, remove sod 6″ beyond the edges of the planned area to allow for installation of plastic edge restaint.

    Step #2. Base preparation

    This is a very important step. The more time and effort you put into the preparation of the base, the better the project and the longer it will last. The correct material properly compacted will resist movement from loading on the surface, and seasonal frost movement from below.

    Carefully spread Class ‘A’ material using a rake and compact in layers of no more than 4″. Lighty water before tamping several times with a vibrating plate compactor. This will create a smooth grade that follows the desired contour of your project while providing good drainage. Use a tape measure to check depth.

    Step #3. Screeding the Sand

    NOTE: It is important to keep your sand dry. Always cover your sand in case of rain. Also, do not attempt to level any area or surface irregularities with the sand. This will result in an uneven surface and unwanted settling.

    Before spreading the sand, lay your screed guides (2X4 lumber or metal screeding guides) directly on the gravel base and as close to the inside edge of each curb as possible. Correctly positioned, these “screed guides” will hold a paver so that it rises about 1/2″ above the installed curb edging.

    With the screed guides in place, spread an even layer of coarse sand over the compacted Class ‘A’. Then, resting each end of a 2X4 on the screed guides, drag it across the sand towards you. This will smooth and level the sand layer, preparing it for the pavers.

    When you’ve completed the entire area, gently remove the screed guides, fill the hollows with sand and carefully level smooth with a trowel.

    Step #4. Laying the Pavers

    Using the pattern you’ve selected, place pavers one-at-a-time starting along the longest straightest side, making sure never to press them or hammer them in.

    Shaw Colorstone Pavers feature a 1/8″ bump on all sides to ensure the correct space is left for jointing sand. Check alignment every 5′ and straighten any out-of-line pavers by gently prying with a screwdriver.

    Use a diamond saw to cut pavers to fit gaps along edges and borders as required. Smaller gaps will be filled later with jointing sand.

    Step #5. Plastic Edging

    If you are using Snap Edge restraint, it should be installed after all pavers are in place. It is important that the edging be installed on the compacted Class ‘A’, not on the screeded sand layer. Carefully remove sand from edge of pavers. Place plastic edging against pavers and spike into the ground at approximately 1′ intervals. Use 8″ non-galvanized common spikes. These spikes will corrode and become locked int soil.

    Step #6. Compacting the Pavers

    Sweep debris off the pavers, then with several passes of a plate compactor, tamp down the pavers. This creates a smooth surface by settling the pavers into the sand.

    Step #7. Finishing the Pavers

    Sweep a medium sized sand across the entire surface to fill the joints between pavers and any gaps too small for cut pavers. Again, with the plate compactor, tamp down the sand to lock pavers into place.